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The door to the left will be mine to the upstairs |
I am definitely taking the upstairs apartment with ocean views starting April 1st. I and my landlord will try to rent it out while I'm in CA April 9-22 or 23. And also while I'm gone in the summer to Italy and Bethlehem, to at least CUT my obligation for rent. I will have two terraces with an ocean view, as well as a more secure feeling. Having a living room door on the street takes getting used to. Victor, my landlord, said that he gets 30 or more email responses every time he lists his apartments, because everybody loves this street! Let me know if anyone needs a vacation!
Around the corner is the beach. I met a nice man from Canada there early this morning. A few men meet at 7AM to have coffee, so tomorrow I am joining them and me and the one guy, John, a master electrician, will swim in the ocean. He, like me, prefers not to swim alone. So excited, but I PRAY I can wake up!

He had just bought $12 sandals and so I went and got some too - they are really ugly, but have a thick sole, and I walked in them all day and feel great! For twelve bucks!
I don't like wearing hats, but this one can be dunked in cold water without losing its shape, and it "breathes" - and it's necessary to keep the sun off my beautiful face! (smirk)
John and I walked a lot that first day, and my face was sizzling went I went to bed, despite the hat which I bought far too late in the day. After two melanomas, fighting the sun will be this sun worshiper’s greatest challenge here. A quick dip in the post-sunset sea provided refreshing relief for my sunburned skin and sore soles. NOTHING, however, could have prepared me for my walk the next day. Talk about exhaustion! It all started with a simple “abanico.”
I had met Consuelo at Sunday Mass. She squeezed into the pew next to me, even though I had positioned myself on the end for two purposes; one, to be solitary, and two, to feel the slight breeze through the open door next to which I had sat.
Second in the pew, I am still content, until the Church became so full that I now was actually squished. And perspiring profusely. Fact is, I sat for nearly forty five minutes feeling hot, anxious, and eventually, cramped. Wait, I digress.
Our Lady of Refuge is only three blocks away - arriba! - UP! I arrived just as the bells were ringing, only to see about forty teenagers gathered in the courtyard area filling out papers - likely answering “Jesus” questions.
I am quite familiar with “teen nights,” having been a Youth Minister at two different Churches, trying to elicit some semblance of spiritual interest out of these pre- and pubescent creatures. I snickered a bit at the sight of these Mexican young people behaving exactly as “my students” did both in 1982 and again in 2005. Though obviously bored, they managed to transmit sexual signals and inflict peer pressure, while simultaneously answering “God is love” for every query on their “inner-view” sheet. (I'm sure of this)
I found my place in the Son, alone in a pew exactly in the middle of the Church, near the door, where air would hopefully flow. There were about twenty people in the Church. The bells rang. Teens were still scattered outside, and some sitting up front near the sanctuary. No priest in sight.
As more faithful file in, I decide to read the day’s readings on my I-Phone 6 Roman Catholic Buddy APP. Bells ring again at 6:45. Still no priest, but a lot more people. I’m now beginning to think they changed the time of the Mass behind Google’s back.
It was nearing 7PM when Consuelo plopped down next to me, forcing me to slide and squish into the lady on my right. I took out my “abanico” (Spanish fan) I had gotten in Sevilla. I was one of about five ladies “fanning,” as the locals are obviously acclimated to this humidity and heat. I’m getting there!
When the bells rang again and the Mass had still not yet begun, I turned to my neighbor and asked what time Mass was supposed to begin. She giggled and said,
“Cuando el sacerdote está listo” (When the priest is ready). I rolled my eyes, flourished my fan, and laughed. A friendship was born. She admired my abanico as I waved it in front of both of us, providing a mediocre respite. Problem is, waving a fan requires energy, and energy produces - you got it - more heat!
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Mi abanico de Sevilla (My fan from Seville) |
Mass did indeed begin - about 7:15 - and although my hearing aid batteries died during the celebration, I wasn’t disappointed, since I can barely follow the Mass in Spanish anyway. I’m learning slowly, and adjusting as well, to receiving the Eucharist on my tongue (“when in Rome”), something I haven’t done since 1966. Although I am aware of the ongoing controversy surrounding the practice of receiving in the hand, the tongue thing still kinda bugs me.
After Mass, Consuelo and I formally introduced ourselves and exchanged phone numbers. We talked briefly about our families and grandchildren (she has five), and before I knew it, she had invited me over for coffee and food the following day. I told her that I didn’t eat much, and that coffee would be enough and wonderful.
“Ensalada, entonces!” (Salad, then!) she insisted, and I accepted. Yummy! Coffee and salad! (Dios Mio! - My God!), what a combo.
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Bag on head, this mama and niña climbed - I followed, bent forward like a hungry giraffe! |
When I arrived at her humble two-story concrete “row home” at the top of Uruguay St., I was drenched. Not mincing words here - this was all out sweat, not mere perspiration. The ascent was grueling. It is both steep and uneven.
Consuelo met me at the corner with an "almost" completely teeth-filled smile. Before we entered, she apologized for her poverty. I assured her that her home was perfect, and that I already knew that she was, in many ways, an immeasurably rich woman - or I would never had "fanned" her. She agreed, giggled, and gave me a big tight hug, before sitting me
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Nueva amigas! (new friends) |
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A salad fit for a Queen! |
before a lovely huge "ensalada" that was all for me! (Oddly, she had already eaten.)
I barely made a dent in it, however, that was neither all I ate - nor all I experi-enced. With-in the next two hours, I would indulge in the enticing wealth that has drawn me back to Mexico for more than thirty years.
(Stay tuned for the "Magic of Abanicos," the "14,000-foot Birthday," and "St. Anthony and the Boob" story)